Summer is on the down side and winter is getting closer everyday. Gas prices have gone down a bit (not enough) and will hopefully go lower. We have been locked into a different weather pattern with cool nights, warm days, and rain on a regular basis which is odd for July and August. I hope we still have some moisture left for the winter season.

I stopped by the FBP corral and did some snooping. A Fox float shock was tore apart and had some tube type gizmo attached to it. Upon further inspection I saw a Yamaha with floaters which had the same little cigar type canisters mounted on it. They weren't giving out much free advice but looks like they are adding extra air capacity to give a smoother low speed ride. The Floats need this as they are always a bit harsh. Good looking item that I am sure you will see this fall.

Race talk was starting to float around and they have a new sled sitting in shop that will be used on next years USCC circuit. Suspension was tore out and clutches were removed so the sled is getting some re-work before the testing season arrives. I know they use racing to test new ideas and products plus for reliability on existing parts. Those cross country race sled set-ups make great trail sleds with a bit of suspension tuning to setup for individual weight and style. I know they use Accelerator Clutch Kits, which means that consumers who order these kits are getting the exact same clutching developed to work in a wide variety of conditions and still offer maximum performance.

Congratulations to Fett Racing as they won the USCC Team of the Year award. Good to see hard working guys get recognized.

Also to Spencer and Trevor Fett for the effort they put in this past cross country race season.

Trevor ended up 13th overall in his first Semi Pro season.

Spencer worked his way into a 3rd place overall finish.

GREAT JOB and GOOD RIDING!

DOC!

WD40: Two great summer uses for this product. It will remove road tar from your car and will do the same for grime on the barbeque grill. Just like magic in a can.

Now a few questions:

Q: I have a 500 Polaris ATV and need more top end. If I installed a clutch kit can I keep up with the new 700's?

A: FBP sells the Dalton ATV clutch kits because they are a great all around, trail busting kit. Many kits on the market are tested on hard pack drag strips with no concern for rough trail pulling or top end. The Dalton kits are designed and tested in mud bogs, root infested swamps, and tight, rocky sections and on long flat out woods trails. They may not be the fastest kit for the local fairground drags but they do work best where you ride the most. Most ATV problems come about as larger or more aggressive tires are installed. This is where the Dalton kits shine, they bring back that lost power without losing any top end.

I know of no ATV clutch kits that give more top end, the units don't have enough horsepower to pull much more so very hard to get. You will never run with a 700 at the top. Forget that and make the best of your unit. Yours is lighter and easier to manuveur so use that to your advantage.

DOC!

Q: I have a Ski-doo 800MXZx and have hit a tree and bent my ski shock. I checked at my dealer but he said Ski-doo doesn't sell the shaft or a seal head for that model. He suggests a new shock for over $300, is he correct or trying to get a larger sale. I bought the sled because they list the shocks as take apart and rebuildable, I guess that only means for a few parts?

A: Your dealer is correct, Ski-doo only wants you to replace a few o-rings and valves in their shocks; otherwise it is considered a replaceable part. The boys at FBP can most likely fix you up. They have had shafts and seal heads made up to fit many of the popular HPG shocks. Another option is to contact them about Fox replacements: 100% rebuildable, excellent shock action, and parts are cheaper and readily available.

Fixing is cheaper but if it happens again you may be at a crossroads. Personally, I would sell the HPG shocks and put that money toward the Fox units. This would guarantee you an easily repairable shock with minimal downtime.

DOC!

Q: I can't decide if I should purchase a set of Heavy Hitters or the complete Accelerator Kit. I have limited knowledge of clutching but am willing to learn. What would be best for me?

A: I have been there when the boys do clutch testing and it goes like this.

First- sled is ran in stock form to give a baseline recording.

Second- Heavy Hitters are installed, ran, re-adjusted, ran, etc. until the best performance is achieved. This setting becomes the Heavy Hitter Set-up you can access on web site.

Third- Using the Heavy Hitter setting, they change springs, rollers, helixes, gears, or some combination of the above to see if more performance can be gained. Usually the Heavy Hitter setting is changed slightly to match these new components. This is the Accelerator Kit for best overall performance. 

I do know that the majority of gain is obtained with the Heavy Hitters alone. The rest of components just add that last bit of performance.

If you are looking for a good increase, Heavy Hitters will do the trick. If you are looking for the best performance possible then the Accelerator Kit is your answer.

DOC!

Q: I see many clutch kits offer two springs and helix along with cam arms but Accelerator Kits don't. Why is this?

A: Accelerator Kits only use components that are needed. I have seen clutch kits that have the same spring (new color) and same helix angle as stock. These companies feel that consumers probably need a new spring and that a billet cut helix is more accurate than the stock cast units. Plus they know what the consumer has in sled if any questions arise.

I think they do get some questions as these items are no better than stock so there won't be much difference in performance. Some items stock work just fine, so only change those that make a difference on that model sled.

Just because a kit has a lot of parts doesn't necessarily mean that it will work better. The parts may only be there to keep the kit priced high enough to make it a profitable item or because you have been trained to expect a kit with many parts. Quality not quantity is what makes a good kit.

DOC!

Q: I have a Cat ZR440 with the cross link rear suspension. It seems to need servicing more often than regular shocks. Sometimes it has just locked up on me. Is this a common problem or am I installing something wrong?

A: The Cross Link was Cat's idea to couple the rear suspension through the shocks to make them stiff enough for snocross racing. Didn't work out as planned as they wrestled with it every year and finally have gone back to two standard style shocks. The problem is the shocks are connected so the oil is forced back and forth faster than the orifices can handle and then it forces itself past o-rings into areas where it shouldn't be. Racers serviced regularly, best bet for trail riders is to pick up a set of used shocks off same year ZR CC sled and install. The front will have to be remote resovoir to get enough shaft travel. This is why race sleds are not always good trail sleds, and in this case not the best system for either.

DOC!

Q: Someone told me that if I install heavier cam arms in my clutch, it would shift harder. Does this mean I will get more top end?

A: All snowmobile clutchs are the same, they use centrifigual weight to shift the clutches. This means more weight will cause the clutch to shift into higher gear at a faster rate (or shift harder). This will also pull the rpm's down as motor will have to work harder. The opposite is true with lighter weights; higher rpm and shifts into high gear slower. Top speed is best obtained when correct rpm is maintained all the way from bottom to top. The tach is your best friend, watch it like a hawk. If your rpm are correct and the belt comes to the top of the primary clutch, you are at your maximum speed for those conditions and gearing.

DOC!

Q: Do I have to drain out all of my oil if I decide to change brands? Would this mean not just the oil tank but the lines and pump also?

A: You will hear different opinions on this but honestly it is ok to just dump the new oil on top of the old and keep on driving. None of the manufacturers use any odd chemical combinations that would create problems. Common sense would tell us that if you were stuck in a remote area with no oil, any type would be used. Also everyone is watching costs in their formulas so many of the basic additives are very similar. I wouldn't recommend changing types on a daily basis, but if you are switching over to something else for the season, run it low, pour in new oil, and enjoy the winter.

DOC!

Q: I have an 05 FireCat 700 and have tightened up the limiter strap, adjusted the springs, and put on 8" carbides in an attempt to corner like my old ZR. What else can be done as I haven't got it yet?

A: Your problem is easy to correct. Go to the Ride Tech section of this website, print and fill out form, send in with your shocks for the Ride Tech Stage 2 kit. Cornering and handling will improve dramatically.

DOC!

Q: I have pre-ordered a new sled for next season and was wondering if I should use petroleum base or synthetic for break-in? I have heard the synthetic is great but not the best at break-in time?

A: I think this subject has been argued for years and is the topic at many garage sessions and on various internet sites. Usually depends on one guys experience with a certain brand of oil or someone he knew of who had problems. Personally, I start with the oil I am going to use and never worry about it again. I am a firm believer in synthetics for high heat capability and clean burning. I have never had a compression or engine issue because of this. I have checked compression many times against other sleds and been comparable. Good compression, long engine life, and no problems so this is what I stay with. Others may disagree but this works for me.

DOC!

Submit your question here: DR SNOW FORM

 Snowmobile Expert | Snowmobile Maintenance | Snowmobile Information