June has come and we still aren't seeing many warm summer days up here in the north. Freeze warnings have still been issued and only a few days have the temps hit into the high 70's or above. The wind blows just about everyday and rain is needed. This is similar to last year's spring/summer beginning and after July things straightened out and we had a nice fall and decent winter. Maybe this is the trend in weather so hopefully next snow season will be great.
I have been wondering if I will get any stimulus money but no word from anyone yet. I grew up from the "old school" of only buying what I could afford and paying my bills on time. I don't believe that works nowadays, you have to overspend your budget and then let the government bail you out.
I am going to leave my impressions on the Ride Tech updates that the FBP boys did to their 09 XP Ski-doo and 09 CFR Cat. Riding the sleds this spring was a surprise in how much the suspension could be improved for trail type riding. Don't let those sleds beat your body up, send in your shocks for a Ride Tech upgrade. Better handling, more enjoyable, and takes the stress off the old body.
The 09 Sk-doo XP MXZ has what I thought was a decent ride with just a few odd quirks. Riding the FBP XP made me realize how complacent I had become and there is no reason to put up with the stock type ride. Front end was firmer and soaked up the biggest hits without bottoming. The rear was less harsh than stock in low speed stutter bumps and then took the big whoops without bottoming. Better handling and steering in all types of trail conditions makes this top selling sled even better.
The 09 Arctic Cat Cross Fire R was a handful when I first got to ride one. I spent more time bouncing off the seat that sitting on it and my old knees were sore after a 25 mile ride trying to keep myself centered on sled. The FBP CFR was like a completely different sled, best comparision was to the old ZR sleds, soaked up the bumps (big or small) and railed the corners with confidence. Even the traction was improved when exiting a corner with less track spin and better hook-up. If you have one of these, don't sell it because of the ride. Get a Ride Tech Kit and you will think you bought a new sled.
Racing: Spencer had an up and down season but hung in there and came out with a 2nd overall in Semi Pro Improved and 7th overall in Semi Pro Stock. He is a young driver who always has a smile and gives his best. His plans for next season are still in the wind but I am sure he will be successful in whatever he decides to run.
If you are looking to go racing or feel the need for a 600 high performance trail sled give FBP a call. Spencer's winning sled is in good shape with nothing tweaked or bent and would be a good way for someone to get Arctic's latest technology at a good price. You can find it in the Specials section of this website.
DOC!
Letting the "cat out of the bag" is a whole lot easier than putting him back in.
Now a few questions:
Q: I have a set of Fox floats on the front end of my sled. I have changed the air pressure up and down but all I get is the sled seems to set lower to the ground with less air pressure. I am trying to soften the ride for trail speeds. Are air shocks always this way?
A: You are like many air shock owners, thinking that the air shock is going to be a magic solution to your suspension problems. The internals of air shocks are the same a regular shocks, the air only takes the place of the spring. On a set of coil over shocks you would have same scenario if you put on soft or harder springs. The shocks most likely need a revalve job to get them to react to the terrain. FBP also sells Air Canisters that will help soften the low speed ride by increasing the air volume. This means it takes longer for the shock to ramp up to maximum pressure. This is still NO fix for the proper valving. Contact the boys at FBP for info on valving or check the Ride Tech section on this website and get that fixed. Then you can add a set of Air Canisters and you will ready to hit the trails; smooth, washboard, or whoops you will be sitting pretty and in control.
DOC!
Q: I purchased a shock valving kit for my sled (Polaris IQ 600), got together with my buddy and we installed the valves according to the directions sent with the valves. Took it out for a ride, but it still seems soft. Any idea why the valve stacks didn't work?
A: There is a bit more to valving than just installing a valve stack. The piston which the valves set on may be different so oil would flow differently, the type or weight of oil will have some affect on shock action (heavy oil flows slower and light oil flows faster), and the spring may have to be changed to match the new valve stack. Sometimes it is only one of these items or a combination of them. I know that when FBP performs a Ride Tech suspension upgrade, you are not only purchasing some valves/springs but their testing knowledge and a whole package. Sometimes trying to save a buck isn't such a good deal, the old saying you get what you pay for holds true for many things. Suspension tuning is somewhat of a "black art" and it takes years of good old experience, not just reading a manual to be able to understand what makes a suspension work correctly.
DOC!
Q: I have a Kawasaki Prairie ATV with the 650 engine and I put different tires on it as the stockers needed replacement. The new tires are the same size but have a deep lug mud tread which I wanted for the slimy conditions we sometimes get ourselves into. The problem I now have is that I have lost some performance and my belt squeals sometimes. Was it the tires or just coincidence and something else is wrong?
A: You are correct with your first guess with the tires being the cause. ATV's are heavy units with limited horsepower and are geared and setup for stock tire size. You have gone over this setting and now need some clutch work. Call FBP or look under the ATV section on this website for a clutch kit that will solve this problem. These kits work great for all around trail riding when you have installed some oversize or aggressive tires.
DOC!
Q: I have an 06 MXZ500SS with about 1500 miles and stock motion control shocks in the rear with replacement HPG's on the front. I weigh 160 lbs and have rear torsion springs set at highest setting to stop bottoming. When I get off the sled it does not return to the top. Are the springs pooched or is it the shocks? If the shocks, what is a good replacement?
A: You have come to the right place as replacement shocks are only a few pages away. FBP offers replacement Fox shocks for Ski-doo and you can get rid of your throw away stock units. Now onto the spring issue, with the stock shocks light valving and stock springs I am sure you have sagged them out. If it was me, I would check into a Ride Tech suspension upgrade from FBP for your rear. They would have the shocks and could set you up with some heavier springs to balance out the package.
I hear this quite often that riders complain about the sled not coming back up to full extension when dismounting. The shocks are not to blame for this if they are in working condition. They only are there to control the spring, not push the sled back up. Now if they are damaged they could hold suspension down but that is a different story. The other thing is that when doing this, sled must be on a flat hard surface. I have seen sleds sag at rear when sitting on concrete but near a floor drain. The slant of the floor will cause front of rail to raise slightly and then rear will sag. This has nothing to do with shocks or springs but is in the mechanics of the suspension.
DOC!
Q: I have a Ski-doo 800MXZx and have hit a tree and bent my ski shock. I checked at my dealer but he said Ski-doo doesn't sell the shaft or a seal head for that model. He suggests a new shock for over $300, is he correct or trying to get a larger sale. I bought the sled because they list the shocks as take apart and rebuildable, I guess that only means for a few parts?
A: Your dealer is correct, Ski-doo only wants you to replace a few o-rings and valves in their shocks; otherwise it is considered a replaceable part. The boys at FBP can most likely fix you up. They have had shafts and seal heads made up to fit many of the popular HPG shocks. Another option is to contact them about Fox replacements: 100% rebuildable, excellent shock action, and parts are cheaper and readily available.
Fixing is cheaper but if it happens again you may be at a crossroads. Personally, I would sell the HPG shocks and put that money toward the Fox units. This would guarantee you an easily repairable shock with minimal downtime.
DOC!
Q: My Polaris IQ was too soft for me and I found someone who had a set of ski shocks from a race sled. Now the front seems too stiff and the back is still too soft. Do I look for a set of racer shocks for the rear and then have them revalved softer?
A: Your first option should have been to take all four stock shocks and send them in to FBP for a Ride Tech Stage 2 or 2 PLUS. This would have stiffened up the valving and gave you the correct springs. Now you will need to have the ski shocks revalved softer and different springs installed, the rear will have to be revalved firmer and new stiffer springs installed. You can get the same results but you wouldn't have had to purchase the race shocks to get a firmer ride.
DOC!
Q: I looked around this spring and decided that I would get in on the spring deal for a new sled. I decided to be a guinea pig and try the new Polaris RUSH. Do you think I made a mistake? I am a normal, semi aggressive trail rider so I ordered the high windshield. Any ideas on how this sled will perform, my dealer of course makes all the claims but I know better than to believe everything I hear.
A: I think you did ok. I do know that the boys at FBP also spring checked a RUSH so they will be working on a clutch and suspension setup as soon as it hits their door. Their thoughts were that the sled would be interesting to work on and should offer a good ride. There are bound to be some items that they will find for improvement but that is true of all sleds. Keep an eye on this site under shop talk and I am sure they will be posting their results.
DOC!
Q: I don't get the ride I want from the front of my sled. I replaced the stock ski shocks with a new set of stock shocks but it still bottoms excessively. I was wondering if I should put on a set of Fox Floaters as I heard they ride great? I have put 6,000 miles on this sled and plan to use it for a few more years yet, so would like to get it setup for this season.
A: First of all, I can't believe you put up with a poor ride for that many miles, I guess better late than never. Floaters are ok shocks but will do you no good if they are not valved correctly. An improperly valved shock (regardless of brand) will not give a good ride. Most economical solution is to send you shocks to FBP and let them do a Ride Tech upgrade. This will solve you problem for about half of what the Floaters are worth. If you are sold on Floaters, go ahead but then after break-in of 600-800 miles send them to FBP for an initial service and revalve to get the best ride. Don't go through another 6,000 miles and beat yourself to a pulp when the answer is quick, easy, and cost effective.
DOC!
Q: I have an 04 FireCat 700 and have tightened up the limiter strap, adjusted the springs, and put on 8" carbides in an attempt to corner like my old ZR. What else can be done as I haven't got it yet?
A: Your problem is easy to correct. Go to the Ride Tech section of this website, print and fill out form, send in with your shocks for the Ride Tech Stage 2 kit. Cornering and handling will improve dramatically. No amount of stock adjustments will give the FireCat great handling. The sled needs shock revalving, different springs, and some minor suspension mods which the Ride Tech kit takes care of. Get the Ride Tech work done and then you can still fine adjust if needed using stock adjustments.
DOC!
Q: I have a chronic case of blowing drive belts. I took sled back to dealer for alignment check and everything was straight. Any ideas what to look for as dealer said sled seemed to work ok. I have a lot of belt dust and rpms are slow to climb. Sled is all stock.
A: I would take both clutches apart and inspect all rollers and bushings. Sheaves should slide freely and look for any signs that clutch arms are binding or getting scuffed up. Check secondary for same things especially rollers. Also check chaincase to make sure there is no issue inside. While chain is off and clutches are removed, check jackshaft and driveshaft that bearings turn freely and have no play. Hopefully you will find the binding problem.
DOC!
Q: I have an ATV that seems to be hard on belts. When pulling hard the belt will squeal a bit and then go if I get on the gas hard. Any ideas?
A: Easy fix here, check the ATV section and install a clutch kit from FBP. These kits are made by Dalton Industries and they do a good job of testing before releasing a kit. Kits are available for many makes and models and will solve the belt issues that plague ATV's.
Q: I was wondering how you store your sled for the summer as I have heard many different methods but trust your experienced judgement. I currently have a Polaris 600 Dragon and an F8 Cat.
A: My method isn't always the "norm" but it has worked for me over the years and I am staying with it.
1. Siphon out old gas and pour into car.
2. Put in a few gallons of 100 octane aviation fuel (can be picked up a local airport) as this fuel won't varnish up carbs (great for EFI sleds too).
3. I also add a bit of fuel stabilizer to this av gas.
4. Locate oil pump lever and with a piece of wire you can hook the lever into the wide open position. Make sure throttle is still working freely.
5. Remove drive belt and start sled, let sled idle with oil pump wired open for 5 minutes.
6. Remove wire from oil pump and siphon fuel out of tank, this can also be poured into car tank.
7. Spray clutches, chaincase, engine, pipe with a good coating of WD40 to prevent corrosion over the summer.
8. In the fall a bit of acetone will clean WD40 off clutch belt surfaces before installing drive belt, put fresh gas in the tank, and you can fire it up.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure I always wash sled, check or change chaincase fluid, and be sure all grease nipples get a shot of grease.
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